Paris, Day 3

03.01.2011

This morning we finally managed to get up on time…fank the yord! as Baby Audrey would say—so we got packed up and left Abby and Stéphane’s house (sad part!) and then went to the hotel. It’s the perfect hotel—just the right size, great staff, and in the middle of Passy.

After we got settled at the hotel, we had a short walk around Passy for old time’s sake…although a lot has changed, so much is the same. I think my favorite thing was seeing the flower shop where Mom and I used to go buy flowers because our apartment smelled so bad!

After our Passy moment, we went ahead to La Conciergerie. Of course the line for La Sainte Chapelle was horribly long. I thought that would only be the case in the summer, but apparently there are plenty of tourists here that would like to see the “dentelle de pierre”. I hope that we will be able to make it back there, as it’s been about 10 years now since I’ve been able to see it.

It goes without saying that La Conciergerie was amazing. I can’t help it—I absolutely adore the big, gloomy feel and all the revolutionary “stuff”. Part of my love for this museum dates back to my first visit, when I had just discovered XVIIIe century French literature. I was just walking up the stairs and around the corner when BAM! mannequins, dressed in period clothing, in jail cells where they tell you what each person’s duty was during the Revolution. I know it’s a little weird, but my favorite is the one with the man who prepared everyone for the trundle to the guillotine…cut the hair, shirts, etc.

And, of course, I took the obligatory picture of the guillotine blade. I must have 100 pictures of this thing…but, WOW!

And then there’s the Marie Antoinette aspect…I just get chills looking at the things that are there to commemorate her. She was such a complex person living in such a complex time, I find it impossible to not be absolutely enthralled by her.

The top of the monument to her, with an inscription penned by Louis XVI

The bottom of the monument, with an excerpt from her last letter, to the king’s sister, Elisabeth:

“Que mon fils n'oublie jamais les derniers mots de son père, que je lui répète expressément : qu'il ne cherche jamais à venger notre mort!...”

I love this quote—it makes one think about all of the complexities of a revolutionary period, which was clearly aimed for good, but did do some harm, a mother’s relationship with her children, as well as the ties between social, economic, and religious aspects that existed at the time. (And let’s not forget the ever-present censures that might have also played a part in her thoughts about what to write.) The entire letter is heartbreaking, but also amazing to read.

The remake of her cell, as well as her last picture and a fragment of the rug that she used in her cell.

After La Conciergerie, we went to Notre-Dame and walked around the chapel as well as the Treasure Room. This was something that I had never seen before, but that Jerry knew from his previous trip. I was so glad that he knew about it, because it was really very fascinating. There were lots of different kinds of reliquaries, chalices, and other extremely valuable objects. It was so interesting to see the reliquaries with actual bones or fragments in them—such a different way of thinking about honoring those who have passed away.

The first is a picture of Saint Louis’ (Louis IX) shirt that he wore for “punishment” or “absolution”.

There was also a beautiful Christmas tree out in front of the cathedral—it was awesome at night when we left.

Here are a few pictures of the nativity scene inside the cathedral as well as a couple of some new favorites on the portails.

And finally, some fun from outside La Conciergerie…

à demain, mes chers!